streetsnsquares: Stupas of Kathmandu I: Swayambhu

I love looking at old city maps, nothing like the detailed and often hand-crafted(note not drafted!) cartographic masterpieces. They say so much about a place than words ever will. Unfortunately, not all places on earth have that luxury of documentation. I tried looking up maps for Kathmandu to study how the city has evolved through its history to its present state but alas! I could only go as far as 1960 but not further. I have been trying to find maps, pictures of the city around the 1930s but haven't got my hands on those yet. So the next best thing is to look for old sketches (travelogues mostly) or accounts of Chinese travelers but that often lacks images, so its pictures and more pictures as the only source of authentic documentation of change. Since the most logical places to look for is pictures of monuments and public places- I'm going to begin this series with the Stupas of Kathmandu Valley - note that the archived documentation of these monuments goes back to the 11th century in some cases. To get this series off the floor, I'm starting with Swayambhu Stupa. Some of the recent pictures are mine but most of the older ones, I do not own them. These images are interesting because they give a fair picture of the urban expansion Kathmandu Valley has experienced within the last 50 years. If you have images you would like to contribute to this series, do contact me, I will gladly put up images(with due credit).

Location of Swayambhu Stupa (Courtesy Google Maps)

As a first, I'm putting up an old sketch by Daniel Wright.

Drawing by Daniel Wright - Date n/a

Swayambhu Stupa - 1920

Swayambhu Stupa - 2007

Swayambhu Stupa - 2012

Swayambhu Stupa - 1960

The view of the valley (east) from Swayambhu - 2012

Base of Swayambhu Stupa, north - 2007

At the base of the main flight of steps, east - 2012

Stupa on top - 2012

Looking back down towards the steps - 2012

Be prepared to see monkeys!...lots of monkeys infact

Southern side - 2012

View of the harmika and the pinacle - 2012

Prayer wheels around the base of the stupa

Maitreya Buddha circa 5th century, nw corner

The old and new - side by side

Smaller Chaityas on the main flight of steps, east - 2012

You can get your name sculpted on a rock

About the Stupa:

Sketch showing the location of major Stupas within the Kathmandu Valley.
Swayambhu Stupa has been highlighted.

Plan of the complex with main Stupa at center

Swayambhu plan showing the niches
housing the Tathgathas and their respective Shaktis

Perched on top of a hill, Swayambhu which means - self manifested is one of the oldest power spots within the valley. It is believed to have existed even when the valley was a lake (neolithic period). There are numerous flight of steps that lead you to the top but nothing beats the experience of walking through the front (east) flight of stone steps to see the stupa emerge on top. There is a parking lot half-way to the top at the western side of the hill, but you will still have to walk the rest of the way to the top albeit on steps which are fairly comfortable to walk (unlike the steps on the eastern side).

The white washed stupa is some 20 meters in diameter and supports a square gilded Harmika and a pinnacle of 13 gilt rings that culminate in a parasol. The 13 rings represent the 13 levels of perfection – the steps to attain enlightenment or nirvana. The five transcendent Buddhas, the Tathagatas occupy niches at the cardinal directions around the dome. On four cardinal directions, there are four shrines, not exactly facing E, W, N, S but deviating by a certain angle. The west shrine is the key shrine of Swayambhu (Aamitabh). There are also shrines in four corner directions, occupied buy the consorts (taras). The shrines have been added due course of time. The oldest ones are the four aadi Buddhas’ shrines on four cardinal directions. Each niche is a gilded temple in itself, reminiscent of the ceremonial gateways which gave access to the circumambulatory paths around stupas found in ancient India. The hemisphere of Swayambhu has a flattened area on top. There is a small drummed base (not much high). There is hermika with painted eyed and a toran on all four sides. Towards the east, on top of the flight of steps, there is a Bajra on a Dharmadhatu Mandala in front of Swayambhu made by Pratap Malla.

Updated on November 25, 2016

Although the main Stupa escaped the devastating twin quakes of April-May 2015 with minimal damage, the surrounding temples and structures weren't so lucky. Anantapur Temple was damaged to the point where it had to be brought down to the first level before repairs could happen. The monastery to the SW was damaged, as well as the structure west of the Harati Temple. The bhajan mandap in front of the stupa to its East next to the main staircase was also heavily damaged. The temple to the North of the main stupa has been closed off, its windows closed off with ply wood and sheer cracks adorn the building facade.

The viewing platforms to the SE were damaged extensively as as of November 2016 closed and cordoned off indefinitely.