Tuesday, December 27, 2016

Sights of Varanasi


It turned out to be a rather whirlwind trip through Varanasi (Beneras), Sarnath, Gaya, Bodhgaya, Allahbad. In many ways, felt like I was on a Buddhist circuit. But nearly not enough to soak in the place that was Beneras. I've heard stories, seen pictures and studied maps of the historic city with its narrow lanes and heard tales of the mighty river 'Ganga' that appears like an ocean to a first timer, but alas - two days wasn't quite enough.

I did manage to go to quite a few places, the ancient Kashi Temple through the narrow lanes, feasted on the famous Benerasi Paan, Rabadi and Tomato Chaat but it wasn't enough. I hope to be back soon and explore the narrow lanes and its magnificient ghats more. 

The thing about walking though the narrow lanes at least the ones that led to the Kashi Temple was how different it felt from walking along similar narrow lanes in other places. May be it was the openess - all the shops essentially open out to the street, or the relatively low height buildings, the lack of cantileverd projections butting out above your head - the walk, against all expectation did not feel cramped. Despite the vendors trying to lure you to their shops, it- the walk, wasn't unpleasant. That's something I take from the experience. 

Another aspect has to be the experience of the temple smack in the middle of this old city. I have to admit, I'm used to and almost expect religious buildings at a stand alone structure with a decent amount of foreground. This was different, one minute you are walking between these shops, and the next step you are literally walking through metal detectors to get inside the temple complex. It certainly was a first for me.

Along the way, we also got to see some of the Mauryan Stupas at Kesharia and Kohlua, possibly dating back to the reign of Emperor Ashok.

The thing that stood out most for me, was this contrast between the sense of place between Gaya and Bodhgaya. The difference was stark. And yet both places are so intertwined historically. Its puzzling how we human beings can create such different built-up environments even within such close proximity.

To be continued...
Kohlua Excavated Ruins
(Dec. 2016)
The banks of Gaya
(Dec. 2016)
Narrow lanes of Gaya
(Dec. 2016)
One of the access to the main Ghat area
(Dec. 2016)


Electric Tuk Tuks at Bodhgaya (Buddha Mahabodhi Temple)
(Dec. 2016)

Evening Ganga Aarti at Varanasi Ghat
(Dec. 2016)


Asokan Stupa at Kesharia
(Dec. 2016)

Wooden Stove at Gaya
(Dec. 2016)

80'-0" tall Budda Statue at Bodhgaya
(Dec. 2016)

Triveni Sangam, Allahbad, UP, India



Main approach to the confluence
(Dec. 2016)


Looking towards the main confluence point of three rivers
(Dec. 2016)

Setting up the area for the Kumbh Mela
(Dec. 2016)

Setting up the area for Kumbh Mela
(Dec. 2016)



Rani Pokhari (Queen's Pond)

Images from Rani Pokhari built during the reign of King Pratap Malla (1624-74 AD)


The pond, temple and clocktower at the background
before the 1934 earthquake (1920)

Rani Pokhari before the April-May 2015 Earthquake
(Nov. 2014)
Rani Pokhari (April 2015)


Rani Pokhari after the earthquake and
start of reconstruction (Oct. 2016)

Dried out Rani Pokhari during reconstruction
(Dec. 2016)

Wednesday, November 30, 2016

The revival of Kamal Pokhari

The following images are from Kamal Pokhari while the revival works were underway. The historical pond was finally getting a much needed make over with a paved pathway around it, as well as a thorough clean up of the pond. Initially targeted for SAARC 2014, construction work seems to have been delayed and is still going on as of December 2016.

As for the pond, it is a historical pond which for the longest time has been in a state of neglect. Land encroachment, construction of roads on either sides and an overall decrease of surface water has seen the pond shrink from its original size.

The efforts at revival is welcome as it aims to develop the pond and its surrounding area as a recreational public space which will be open to the public. In a city like Kathmandu with its open spaces rapidly shrinking giving away to the ever expanding concrete jungle, this is a welcome step.

Looking towards City Centre (SE)
(May 2016)

Looking towards South (May 2016)


Looking South West (May 2016)

Looking West (May 2016)

Looking North West (May 2016)

Looking North East (May 2016)

Looking East (May 2016)

Looking South East (May 2016)


Rivers of Kathmandu II: Bishnumati

We don't have to go too far to see the ill effects of unplanned urban growth in our city. Just walk to the middle of any bridge and look down to the river below - the devastation stares right back to us.

I strongly believe that the state of human development of any society can be gauged by the state of its rivers. The sorry state of the rivers that run through the city of Kathmandu well and truly highlight the problems plaguing our city overall.


Construction debris below the bridge (2014)
Bride Construction over Bishnumati at Kalimati (2014)
(West Piers)

Temple and Ghats north of the bridge under construction (2014)


Looking at the river from the bridge at Paropkar (2014)

More of the filth & sewer that the river has become (2014)


River dries out in winter months only sustained by sewer & untreated
industrial waste dumped directly on to the river bed
(2014)

The retaining wall work to the North of this Kalimati-Teku bridge and just beyond the Paropkar bridge was well underway on January 4, 2017.

Looking North from Paropkar Bridge
(Jan. 5, 2017)

Retaining wall construction
They aren't leaving any flood plains for the river
(Jan. 5, 2017)

Tuesday, November 8, 2016

Mixed use buildings of Kathmandu

This post is ongoing and the text will be added once all the pictures have been uploaded.

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Nag Pokhari

Nag Pokhari, Naxal (From SW corner)
Add caption (From SE Corner)
Pictures below show the pokhari drained out for maintenance and cleaning during the summer of 2014.

Nagpokhari (Fron the NE corner)
Nagpokhari (From the NE corner)

On the east of Nagpokhari lies the Nandikeshari Bahal and Temple (Shiva Temple) and a school. The complex was severally damaged by the April 2015 earthquake. The school is undergoing reconstruction currently. Classes have been continued in Temporary (pre-fabricated) structures.

Immediate aftermath of the April 2015
After the debris was cleared out, Temple which was originally inside a squared
courtyard complex can be seen from the outside now with the square building gone

Updated pictures from January 2017. You can see the hotel under-construction in the background.

Typical benches around the pokhari
Jan. 2017
Overall view looking east (from West gate)
Jan. 2017

View from Main Entry at West


Looking towards SE (from West gate)
Jan. 2017